It’s always difficult to pull myself away from the sushi at this sublime shrine to raw fish, but the rest of the menu, including the cooked dishes, is a treat, too, especially the spicy udon soup ...

This noodle soup combines pork fat, lots of briny seafood and a nice handful of gochugaru (red pepper powder). You’ll be shocked by how easy it is to make a large pot of the broth, which keeps well in ...